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Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning venues. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners completely shocked.

“I am completely shocked,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble restaurant securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its former feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this culinary triumph.